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HORSIN'
AROUND! By Kimberly Fu / Star-Bulletin
Feb 09, 1999 |
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CLIPPITY-CLOP
ON THE NORTH SHORE ....Twenty
minutes into a rambling trail ride, you lope up and along a ridge on
Oahus North Shore. Beckers Happy Trails Stable, a few miles
from the boisterous surf center of Haleiwa, |
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Call
1-808-638-RIDE (7433)
8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. (HawaiiST)
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Reservations
Required contact us. |
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My head
was spinning, the morning sun blinded my tired eyes and I was about
ready to heave-ho in full view of passersby in beautiful Waimea town. Yes, I was terrified. But not of the horses themselves. They are beautiful, graceful creatures that bring to mind Black Beauty, Roy Rogers' Trigger, even Mr. Ed. It's the fact that they are also powerful creatures with well-muscled legs and massive bodies that could kick me to hell and back in less than a second that scared the bejesus out of me. No doubt
every first-time horseback rider As we zigzagged our way past Waimea, up Pupukea and through the iron gates of the Happy Trails horse ranch, the terror finally fled and a sense of excitement set in. My sister and I locked glances. We would be riding horses! This
was a long time in coming. Since we were kids, Carolyn and I had dreamed
of riding ponies -- doesn't every kid? But the closest we ever came
to such animals was a donkey hitched to a tree at Pokai Bay Beach
Park. But that's the past. Within 15 minutes of arrival, the Happy Trails Gang had our horses saddled and ready to go. There were six riders and two instructors out on the trail Saturday -- it looked to be a challenging 90 minutes. The fun began when we had to mount our horses. Riders could choose to use a stepping block or no -- I chose no. If tiny Martin Short of "Three Amigos" could hoist his butt up without a block surely I could, too. And I did. But unlike Mr. Short, I kept on going. Thanks to speedy instructor Mark, I kept my precarious seat atop Noe. A belated thanks to you, Mark, and wipe that smirk off your face! Then
my horse, 20-year-old Noe, decided she wanted to pick up the pace
and tailgated poor Bushes, Carolyn's horse. When I got the go-ahead
to pass them Noe became excited, letting loose a brilliant "wind"
as we pulled in front. Bushes' wild neighing clued us in to her ill feelings. But hey, everyone (and every horse) has got to go sometime. And boy, did Noe go a lot. Maybe it was the excitement of running with a team, or getting used to a new rider, or maybe she just couldn't hold it. I'm just glad I was upwind, though I was treated to Noe's fragrance once or twice. I have to admit, being in the saddle is a great feeling. There really is nothing like it. And the gentle showers that poured over us from time to time just couldn't ruin the feeling. With
the flick of a hand or gentle dig of the heel, Noe would take me wherever
I wanted to go. With each pace we took my fears fell away, and I was
able to enjoy the views: the sun glinting over an opulent ocean, bursts
of foam out by breakers that could have been hiding joyriding whales,
spiraling views of green mountains and multicolored flora. There was
always something breathtaking to see. ArchiveFebruary
15, 2001February 1, 2001January 15, 2001January 1, 2001 OK, there are worse things in life than finding yourself stuck in Honolulu for a day with nothing on your to-do list. Paradise is a better place than most to end up at loose ends while your wife is stuck at the convention center. The obvious answer head to the beach, right? Not so fast. For some of us, a day on Waikiki is no day at the beach. We get restless. The prospect of another day of sunny stupor and wrinkled fingers leads to a yearning for something different. Talk to your hotel concierge, and he will rattle off a list of alternatives to sunning and swimming at Waikiki: Theres sunning and swimming at Waimea Bay, sunning and swimming at Hanauma Bay, and, if you want variety, theres sunning and swimming and windsurfing at Kailua Bay. But is there life off the beach on Oahu? Yes. Within an hours drive of Honolulu (and if you drive any farther, your car had better come equipped with a rudder), you can exercise some of those body parts growing flaccid from too much time on your beach towel. CLIPPITY-CLOP
ON THE NORTH SHORE In
fact, this is a very Hawaiian valley, says trail guide Mark
Becker. A professional polo player, he rides easily on his Thoroughbred.
Much of the island once looked like this. In ancient times,
a sizable community lived here. You can see the tea leaves they planted
for cooking. We even have some petroglyphs on the property. Twenty minutes into a rambling trail ride, you lope up and along a ridge on Oahus North Shore. Beckers Happy Trails Stable, a few miles from the boisterous surf center of Haleiwa, is adjacent to one of the islands largest temple ruins, or Heiaus (pronounced hay-ee-ow). Three captured British seamen were reportedly sacrificed on this site in 1793. Calmness reigns here now, broken only by the snorting and shuffling of your mount as you climb the same ancient pathways. You emerge from the forest onto the ridge top with a spectacular view of the Waimea valley. This used to be endless sugar cane country. Now the cane has been replaced by coffee and alfalfa plantations. The horses push through chest-high Pili grass, the kind used to make hula skirts. Soon youre back in the woods, looping around to the stables. Becker reaches out to snag a strawberry guava from a low branch. We have fruit year-round, he says, passing it back. In a mango grove you spy the remains of an old ranch house. A weathered tire swing hangs from a massive Banyan tree, its rope hard to see in the multitude of vines that fall down like a rain shower. A little farther, an overgrown mound of rocks marks another ancient temple ruin. The air carries the tang of fallen, fermenting fruit the smell of a Hawaii long vanished. AW HAWAII
ON HORSEBACK DIRECTIONS: Take H1 out of Honolulu and pick up H2 at Pearl City. Take H2 all the way to Wahiawa, where youll pick up 99. Take Hwy 83, the Haleiwa Bypass Road, to Kamehameha Highway. Just past the popular Waimea Bay Beach Park, turn right at the Foodland on Pupukea Road. Look for the Happy Trails Stable sign about one mile on the right. INFO: Happy Trails offers several rides per day, mostly one-hour trail rides on their ample grounds. Call (808) 638-7433. Reservations are required. DIVERSION: Take time to visit the Puu O Mahuka Heiau (ancient temple) just down the road from the stable. The ruins are preserved as a state monument. EXTREME
HAWAII A lighthouse access road twists up the west side of the point. Follow it down a few yards to a set of mounted binoculars placed there for whale watching. Behind a sign that describes the activities of humpbacks, a faint thread of trail leads to the ridge and plunges, seemingly, over the edge. But the trail is sound if taxing all the way down. At times, you may have to hang onto the black jagged rocks with one hand as you lower yourself down a short drop or a tight switchback. The wind is mostly blocked here and the soundscape is dominated by the rhythmic booming of the big surf. The air is full of salt mist, and every few minutes a blowhole spouts in a 20-foot geyser from a fissure in the rock. As you descend, a broad shelf of rock comes into view at the base of the cliff. The far edge is under assault from the waves, but closer in, a broad plain of sheltered rock is pocked with deep pools. The various organic shapes range from birdbaths to Olympic swimming pools, some of them linked by channels in the rock. These are the intertidal pools that appear twice a day when the surf rolls out. At high tide,
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by Ken Sakamoto and Dennis Oda, Star-Bulletin At those rough points I found myself praying to Noe instead of God, saying "Please, horsie, follow the other horsies," and "Please, Noe, let me get through this alive." OK, and maybe a couple of squeals were involuntarily wrenched from me, but whatever Noe did I made sure to praise and pet her. After all, she was doing the hard work. A few times we stopped for a bite -- Noe was hungry and would grab a taste of whatever exotic grass, weed or plant was available at the time. While she nibbled I was sure to sit ramrod straight in the saddle -- I didn't want to make a wrong move and fall. Mark had said some inattentive riders had stretched above and beyond a safe reach for strawberry guavas and found themselves sitting in "unpleasant" places. As the polo announcer in "Pretty Woman" said, "Beware the steaming divots." See, mom. It pays to watch TV. After awhile the riders' chatter died down and we focused on the beauty of the trail, the power of our carriers, and generally got lost in our own dreams. There's a peace that comes with being out in the countryside, roaming free, knowing you'll reach your destination in safety. This ride taught me there's nothing to fear about horseback riding. If anything it helps you face your fears and brings peace of mind, opens you up to the world around you. It gave me a greater appreciation of horses and all that they can do. It also made me realize the Pony Express mail carriers had to have a lot of guts to speed race across the country on horseback just to pass people their letters. In any case, I will definitely see the pearly gates of Happy Trails again. I have a yearning in my blood now for more riding, and I count Noe as one of my best friends. Heck, she kept me safe and alive. She's my bestest friend! As we dismounted back at headquarters and the horses were led away, I was sad. I looked my friend in the eye, had a few last words, we rubbed noses and she trotted away to be with her boyfriend Freckles. While my legs ached for no more than two days, memories of riding will forever be burned in my brain. If
you've got a yen to go ride horsies, please do! It's an adventure everyone
should take a crack at. And if you see Noe before I do, let her know
I'll be by someday soon.
©
1999 Honolulu Star-Bulletin Thats a tide you dont want to take yourself, so keep an eye on the surf that begins to creep over the far edge. After a couple of hours of solitude among the tide pools, youll deem the Pacific close enough and make your way back to the trail and higher ground. From the top of the ridge, you can watch the ocean reclaim this bit of Hawaii. SOARING
OVER KAENA POINT The 200-foot nylon line pulls taut and you lurch onto the runway. The tow plane floats off the runway and youre right behind, yawing gently from side to side until you reach cruising speed. The green grounds of Dillingham Airfield fall away, and the startling blue Pacific spreads beneath you. Your ride banks inland and you follow in a steep, rounding climb. When you top 3,000 feet, Rohrbach pulls up on his stick and you rise above the tow plane. With the slack off the rope, Don yanks the release handle and the line pulls free. The tow pilot, free of his load, waggles his wings and flies away. Youre on your own, alone with the wind. But you go up, not down. With Oahu dwindling at your feet, you mount the thermals and rise over Waianae Range at a rate of almost 300 feet a minute. Waianae Mountain Range is the landform that gives the west end of Oahu some of the most reliable gliding air in the country. Hour after hour, the ridge deflects wind off the ocean in a steady updraft ideal for sailplanes. The record for a continuous glide here is more than 70 hours. And so soaring clubs have taken over one end of Dillingham, a WW II-era airfield that sits adjacent to the beach. Rohrbach works for The Original Glider Rides, one of two commercial companies offering scenic glider rides of 20 or 30 minutes each. Thats the route the Japanese took on their way to Pearl Harbor, notes Rohrbach, pointing up the valley toward the Pali Pass. He flies lightly, feeling through his stick the movement of the wingtips through the air. He banks in constant graceful curves. You head out over the water, a sheet of azure that clearly reveals stocks of coral. Rohrbach keeps his eyes peeled for schools of yellowjack tuna. If he sees any, he may go fishing later. The viewing is so fine that gliding rides have become popular with whale watchers, and Rohrbach has become a source of whale population information for Hawaiis marine fisheries office. In water this clear, a 45-foot whale sticks out like a sore thumb, he says. They love to calve off of this coast. Weve had three babies born here this year. After half an hour, you slowly climb down from the sky, zeroing in on the landing strip at Dillingham. You touch down, lose speed until one wing drops and skids on its metal strut and rolls to a stop ... about six inches from Tall Dons waiting flip-flops. AERIAL
ADVENTURES DIRECTIONS: Take H1 west out of Honolulu and pick up H2 at Pearl City. Take H2 all the way to Wahiawa; pick up 80 to 803 just outside of town. 803 turns into 930 (Farrington Highway) at Waialua. Dillingham Airfield is on the left. Continue to the second gate for the glider field. INFO: Twenty-minute
glider flights are available 10:30 a.m. RESTAURANTS: Haleiwa is the nearest town blessed with a range of local and franchise options. But dont miss Oahus best burgers at Kua Aina (808-637-6067) in the center of town. RESTAURANTS: Hawaiian plate lunches and burgers are available at the Sunset Diner (808-638-7660), where you can watch the big-wave surfers on Sunset Beach. Also, look for the periodic but tasty Oceanside Grill, which serves vegetarian burgers from a white trailer often parked on Kamehameha Highway just north of the Foodland. And theres plenty to choose from in Haleiwa. MAKAPUU
POINT DIRECTIONS: Take H1 east from Honolulu, which turns into Highway 72. Ten miles past Waikiki, pass the eternally crowded Hanauma Bay, the islands most popular snorkeling beach. Just down the road is Sandy Beach, beloved to surfers, and a mile and a half farther is the parking lot for the Makapuu roadside overlook. INSTRUCTIONS: From the overlook parking lot, follow any of the numerous trails to the right heading up the bluff. Make your way down to the paved access road and follow it away from the lighthouse to a whale-watching area marked with a sign and a mounted telescope. Behind the sign, a trail winds down the ridge face to the Makapuu tide pools. Use caution, and only descend all the way to the pools at low tide. When you climb back up, take an alternate route to your car by following the access road all the way to the highway and then a third of a mile farther to the overlook parking area.
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Call
1-808-638-RIDE (7433)
8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. (HawaiiST)
.~.
Reservations
Required contact us.
Located at 59-231 Pupukea Road ~ North Shore ~ O'ahu ..Directions Rates Schedule .~ Email us directly at Reservations@HappyTrailsHawaii.com . |